Five
Keys to Fearless Riding at Slow Speeds
©
2015 by Moxie Nixx
Moxie
Nixx here. I’m the author of the paranormal motorcycle mystery
novel "Gold Wings are Murder—The Crying Stone." Like my
fictional heroes, I ride my Gold Wing almost daily. For years, I’ve
been working on a set of motorcycle techniques I like to call
Fearless Riding, and I want you to give me 5 minutes out of your next
motorcycle ride. If you will take 5 minutes and try the 5 experiments
described below, I believe you will discover a revolutionary new way
to control your bike at slow speeds and start to become a Fearless
Rider.
From
what I’ve seen, the standard slow speed riding techniques don’t
work that well for the majority of people. Sure you can get good at
them if you practice for hours or are naturally gifted, but if you
have a neck injury, like I do, if you’re a bit clumsy, like I am,
if you’ve just never been able to ride Fearlessly at slow speeds,
or if you are looking for a super easy way to help a new rider pass
his motorcycle test, then take a few minutes and learn these 5 things
about you and your motorcycle.
1. Engine
Launch Speed
2. Take-Off
Distance
3. Idle
Speed
4. Stall
Speed
5. Focal
Distance
Engine
Launch Speed
Coordinating
clutch and throttle—it’s the bane of new riders. When I bought my
Gold Wing, I discovered the bike had so much torque; it would take
off in first gear with the engine at idle. If I’m going to take off
and move slowly around a gas pump, or do a U-turn in a parking lot,
why do I need to add more throttle than that? So, if you want better
slow speed control, you need to know how slowly you can rev the
engine and still be able to take off. I submit that for a Gold Wing,
the Engine Launch Speed is the same as the idle speed.
You
can easily test this yourself on your next ride. Simply find an empty
parking lot that’s free of cross traffic and stop the bike. Look
around to make sure you won’t get run over, then take your digits
off the brakes, let the engine idle, and ease out the clutch. See
what happens.
When
I tried it, my Wing (Esmeralda) effortlessly moved forward at a
walking pace. It was so easy, I wondered if this technique would work
with other bikes. Surely this was a fluke only possible with the Gold
Wing’s giant 6-cylinder motor. So, I went to the other extreme and
borrowed a little, twin-cylinder Harley-Davidson 883 and tried the
same experiment. This little Harley easily took off in first gear
with no gas, no brakes and no sign of stalling.
Now
it's your turn to discover how slowly you can rev the engine and take
off without stalling your motorcycle.
Take-Off
Distance
When
I discovered I could get moving with the engine at idle, I learned
something else: I could have the clutch all the way out without
stalling the bike, bucking or jerking, in less than 3 feet. I’m not
going to tell you exactly how much less, because you probably won’t
believe me. Instead, I’m going to challenge you to find your own
bike’s Take-Off Distance.
So,
while you’re trying new things on your next ride, see how quickly
and smoothly you can let the clutch out with the engine at idle.
Measure your Take-Off Distance by how many feet forward you need to
move in order to get the clutch all the way out. No friction zone.
Just ease the clutch out smoothly and progressively in one continuous
motion. You can pull up to a painted line in the parking lot, or just
guestimate, but remember that distance because we’re going to use
it when we discuss Focal Distance.
Idle
Speed
The
next thing I want you to find is your bike’s Idle Speed. Not the
engine idle speed. I’m talking about the speed your bike will
travel with no gas and no brakes. What? Really. Stay with me.
When
I tried this experiment, I found my Wing would idle along at 5 mph.
That’s pretty darned slow. That’s slow enough to do many everyday
slow speed maneuvers. If I can idle along at 5 mph, no gas, no
brakes, and do most everything I need to do, why do I need any fancy
riding techniques? If I can let out the clutch and just ride
Fearlessly, why should I make things any more complicated than
that?
Again,
I wondered if this was a fluke of the Wing’s monster engine. So,
back on the 883, I learned that the little H-D twin has an Idle Speed
of 10 mph. That’s okay for lots of stuff, but I felt it was a
little fast for close work.
So,
my question to you is: What is your bike’s Idle Speed? I
challenge you to take one minute out of your next ride and find
out.
Stall
Speed
So,
what if I’m riding at 5 mph on my Wing, or 10 mph on a Sportster,
and I need to go slower? Don’t I have to start using the friction
zone and balancing throttle and rear brake? To fine out, I tried
idling along at 5 mph on my Wing, then adding some rear brake. I
thought the engine would immediately stall. I mean, it’s barely
idling! Right? Nope. What I found was that I could add a little rear
brake and the bike would slow down to an indicated 2 mph without the
engine bogging, lugging or stalling. I don’t know how you ride, but
for anything faster than a Slow Race, I think 2 mph should do it and
that is easily achieved with these techniques.
Was
it a fluke? Yes and no. When I tried this same experiment on the 883,
I found I could only get down to about 5 mph before the Harley twin
started to complain. But still, I believe most people would find they
could do almost everything they needed to do in a parking lot at 5
mph.
So,
if you do the four exercises described above, you will know your
Engine Launch Speed (probably the same as your engine idle speed),
your Take-Off Distance (probably less than 3 feet), your Idle Speed
(probably less than 10 mph), and your Stall Speed (perhaps as low as
2 mph). All this by doing less.
You
can now ride Fearlessly at slow speeds without having to balance a
twisting throttle with an in-and-out clutch while steering the bars
back-and-forth. By not revving the engine and not using the friction
zone, you will have a lot more attention available for steering the
darned motorcycle. There is one thing missing. Vision.
Focal
Distance
For
years, I have tried to start or end each ride with a U-turn from a
stop. I figured that way, I would be developing my slow speed control
without having to take time out from my busy schedule to find a
parking lot, setup cones and practice (boring). What I found was that
the standard visual control techniques didn’t work very well.
If
I tried to keep my eyes up and look “back there,” I would lose
focus and run wide. If I tried to focus on one gray spot on the
asphalt among thousands of gray spots on the asphalt, I would lose
focus and wobble all over the farm. When I did manage to keep my
focus on a specific point way back there, I would sometimes hit
bumps, lumps or humps that knocked me off my line. I found this very
uncomfortable.
So,
I tried pulling my vision back toward the bike. Not all the way back
so I was staring mindlessly at the pavement going past my foot pegs.
Just back far enough so that I could see where the heck I was going
to be in the next few seconds.
One
day, as I played with pulling my vision back, I found my sweet spot,
my Focal Distance. For me on slow, tight turns, it's about 6 to 8
feet in front of the motorcycle and on the inside of the turn.
Suddenly, the bike was going where I wanted it to go, because I was
guiding it with my eyes, and lumps, bumps and imperfections in the
road didn’t bother me, because I could see them coming.
I
want you to experiment and find your ideal Focal Distance. Start by
looking all the way "back there" to where you want to end
up. This is to make sure the path is clear and no one is about to run
you over. Then let the engine idle and ease the clutch all the way
out (remember your Take-Off distance). Once the clutch is all the way
out, throttle closed, both hands on the grips, turn your head and
eyes, turn the bars and, while your turning, search for your Focal
Distance.
You
probably won’t find your sweet spot on your first try, so ride on
and have fun. Just come back to this exercise once in awhile. You’ll
get it. You have a huge advantage over me. When I started playing
with this stuff, my speed was all over the place. You will be moving
consistently at your motorcycle’s Idle Speed. Traveling at one
speed will help you quickly find your Focal Distance.
Now
Go for a Ride
Do
the experiments. Just to see. Just for fun. Maybe I’m wrong. Maybe
they won’t work for you on your bike. On the other hand, maybe they
will work great and really add to your riding pleasure. It will be
fun to find out.
My
suggestion is—don’t practice. Practice is boring. Practice is
time consuming. This stuff is easy. It takes 5 minutes to learn. You
don’t need to practice. Instead, try it and, if it works better for
you, apply it on every ride.
I
believe you will find that letting the clutch all the way out with
the engine at idle, dragging a little rear brake when necessary, and
looking where you are going next, will give you all the control you
need for Fearless Riding at slow speeds.
Live
well. Love much. Laugh often.
For
more information about Fearless Riding, or my next "Gold Wings
are Murder" mystery novel, go to
The
End
| Moxie Nixx in Hickory, North Carolina. |
Moxie
Nixx here. I’m the author of the paranormal motorcycle mystery
novel "Gold Wings are Murder—The Crying Stone." Like my
fictional heroes, I ride my Gold Wing almost daily. For years, I’ve
been working on a set of motorcycle techniques I like to call
Fearless Riding, and I want you to give me 5 minutes out of your next
motorcycle ride. If you will take 5 minutes and try the 5 experiments
described below, I believe you will discover a revolutionary new way
to control your bike at slow speeds and start to become a Fearless
Rider.
From
what I’ve seen, the standard slow speed riding techniques don’t
work that well for the majority of people. Sure you can get good at
them if you practice for hours or are naturally gifted, but if you
have a neck injury, like I do, if you’re a bit clumsy, like I am,
if you’ve just never been able to ride Fearlessly at slow speeds,
or if you are looking for a super easy way to help a new rider pass
his motorcycle test, then take a few minutes and learn these 5 things
about you and your motorcycle.
1. Engine
Launch Speed
2. Take-Off
Distance
3. Idle
Speed
4. Stall
Speed
5. Focal
Distance
Engine
Launch Speed
Coordinating
clutch and throttle—it’s the bane of new riders. When I bought my
Gold Wing, I discovered the bike had so much torque; it would take
off in first gear with the engine at idle. If I’m going to take off
and move slowly around a gas pump, or do a U-turn in a parking lot,
why do I need to add more throttle than that? So, if you want better
slow speed control, you need to know how slowly you can rev the
engine and still be able to take off. I submit that for a Gold Wing,
the Engine Launch Speed is the same as the idle speed.
You
can easily test this yourself on your next ride. Simply find an empty
parking lot that’s free of cross traffic and stop the bike. Look
around to make sure you won’t get run over, then take your digits
off the brakes, let the engine idle, and ease out the clutch. See
what happens.
When
I tried it, my Wing (Esmeralda) effortlessly moved forward at a
walking pace. It was so easy, I wondered if this technique would work
with other bikes. Surely this was a fluke only possible with the Gold
Wing’s giant 6-cylinder motor. So, I went to the other extreme and
borrowed a little, twin-cylinder Harley-Davidson 883 and tried the
same experiment. This little Harley easily took off in first gear
with no gas, no brakes and no sign of stalling.
Now
it's your turn to discover how slowly you can rev the engine and take
off without stalling your motorcycle.
Take-Off
Distance
When
I discovered I could get moving with the engine at idle, I learned
something else: I could have the clutch all the way out without
stalling the bike, bucking or jerking, in less than 3 feet. I’m not
going to tell you exactly how much less, because you probably won’t
believe me. Instead, I’m going to challenge you to find your own
bike’s Take-Off Distance.
So,
while you’re trying new things on your next ride, see how quickly
and smoothly you can let the clutch out with the engine at idle.
Measure your Take-Off Distance by how many feet forward you need to
move in order to get the clutch all the way out. No friction zone.
Just ease the clutch out smoothly and progressively in one continuous
motion. You can pull up to a painted line in the parking lot, or just
guestimate, but remember that distance because we’re going to use
it when we discuss Focal Distance.
Idle
Speed
The
next thing I want you to find is your bike’s Idle Speed. Not the
engine idle speed. I’m talking about the speed your bike will
travel with no gas and no brakes. What? Really. Stay with me.
When
I tried this experiment, I found my Wing would idle along at 5 mph.
That’s pretty darned slow. That’s slow enough to do many everyday
slow speed maneuvers. If I can idle along at 5 mph, no gas, no
brakes, and do most everything I need to do, why do I need any fancy
riding techniques? If I can let out the clutch and just ride
Fearlessly, why should I make things any more complicated than
that?
Again,
I wondered if this was a fluke of the Wing’s monster engine. So,
back on the 883, I learned that the little H-D twin has an Idle Speed
of 10 mph. That’s okay for lots of stuff, but I felt it was a
little fast for close work.
So,
my question to you is: What is your bike’s Idle Speed? I
challenge you to take one minute out of your next ride and find
out.
Stall
Speed
So,
what if I’m riding at 5 mph on my Wing, or 10 mph on a Sportster,
and I need to go slower? Don’t I have to start using the friction
zone and balancing throttle and rear brake? To fine out, I tried
idling along at 5 mph on my Wing, then adding some rear brake. I
thought the engine would immediately stall. I mean, it’s barely
idling! Right? Nope. What I found was that I could add a little rear
brake and the bike would slow down to an indicated 2 mph without the
engine bogging, lugging or stalling. I don’t know how you ride, but
for anything faster than a Slow Race, I think 2 mph should do it and
that is easily achieved with these techniques.
Was
it a fluke? Yes and no. When I tried this same experiment on the 883,
I found I could only get down to about 5 mph before the Harley twin
started to complain. But still, I believe most people would find they
could do almost everything they needed to do in a parking lot at 5
mph.
So,
if you do the four exercises described above, you will know your
Engine Launch Speed (probably the same as your engine idle speed),
your Take-Off Distance (probably less than 3 feet), your Idle Speed
(probably less than 10 mph), and your Stall Speed (perhaps as low as
2 mph). All this by doing less.
You
can now ride Fearlessly at slow speeds without having to balance a
twisting throttle with an in-and-out clutch while steering the bars
back-and-forth. By not revving the engine and not using the friction
zone, you will have a lot more attention available for steering the
darned motorcycle. There is one thing missing. Vision.
Focal
Distance
For
years, I have tried to start or end each ride with a U-turn from a
stop. I figured that way, I would be developing my slow speed control
without having to take time out from my busy schedule to find a
parking lot, setup cones and practice (boring). What I found was that
the standard visual control techniques didn’t work very well.
If
I tried to keep my eyes up and look “back there,” I would lose
focus and run wide. If I tried to focus on one gray spot on the
asphalt among thousands of gray spots on the asphalt, I would lose
focus and wobble all over the farm. When I did manage to keep my
focus on a specific point way back there, I would sometimes hit
bumps, lumps or humps that knocked me off my line. I found this very
uncomfortable.
So,
I tried pulling my vision back toward the bike. Not all the way back
so I was staring mindlessly at the pavement going past my foot pegs.
Just back far enough so that I could see where the heck I was going
to be in the next few seconds.
One
day, as I played with pulling my vision back, I found my sweet spot,
my Focal Distance. For me on slow, tight turns, it's about 6 to 8
feet in front of the motorcycle and on the inside of the turn.
Suddenly, the bike was going where I wanted it to go, because I was
guiding it with my eyes, and lumps, bumps and imperfections in the
road didn’t bother me, because I could see them coming.
I
want you to experiment and find your ideal Focal Distance. Start by
looking all the way "back there" to where you want to end
up. This is to make sure the path is clear and no one is about to run
you over. Then let the engine idle and ease the clutch all the way
out (remember your Take-Off distance). Once the clutch is all the way
out, throttle closed, both hands on the grips, turn your head and
eyes, turn the bars and, while your turning, search for your Focal
Distance.
You
probably won’t find your sweet spot on your first try, so ride on
and have fun. Just come back to this exercise once in awhile. You’ll
get it. You have a huge advantage over me. When I started playing
with this stuff, my speed was all over the place. You will be moving
consistently at your motorcycle’s Idle Speed. Traveling at one
speed will help you quickly find your Focal Distance.
Now
Go for a Ride
Do
the experiments. Just to see. Just for fun. Maybe I’m wrong. Maybe
they won’t work for you on your bike. On the other hand, maybe they
will work great and really add to your riding pleasure. It will be
fun to find out.
My
suggestion is—don’t practice. Practice is boring. Practice is
time consuming. This stuff is easy. It takes 5 minutes to learn. You
don’t need to practice. Instead, try it and, if it works better for
you, apply it on every ride.
I
believe you will find that letting the clutch all the way out with
the engine at idle, dragging a little rear brake when necessary, and
looking where you are going next, will give you all the control you
need for Fearless Riding at slow speeds.
Live
well. Love much. Laugh often.
For
more information about Fearless Riding, or my next "Gold Wings
are Murder" mystery novel, go to
The
End
